While holidaying in Mamaia at the Black Sea this August we booked a tour in a double-decker bus. Just as spectacular as Brasov or Bucharest, here are some of the sights we spotted while looking up…
Mamaia is one of the oldest Romanian holiday resorts at the Black Sea and one I visited since I was a baby. It is famous for its sandy beaches and endless beach. I almost forgot that one of the hotels there has the same name with my Mom:
Here is the same gondola from Mamaia seen at sunset:
The pedestrian crossroad:
Also in Mamaia, looking up from the double-decker bus:
In Constanta, modern buildings often alternate with older houses. ses. Look at this charming balcony. It reminded me of Brasov.
Saint Mary is the Patron Saint of Romanian Naval Forces so 15 August is a massive celebration in Constanta, both Christian and military. We went there two weeks after… Look at all the Romanian flags still adorning the city:
I liked the wave design of this light-post found in Constanta Park, near the Cazino, The statue is that of Carmen Sylva, the pen name of Elisabeth, Queen of Romania 1881-1914.
Two different types of street lights right next to each other:
And look at all those birds:
Now this is not a street light, as it is a beacon light, a signaling light – but not a light house…
It was an erstwhile
custom that a mother, no matter how elderly or ailing she felt, would take it
upon herself to bring food to her lad bided elsewhere as soon as the snow thawed
and the first white spring shoots pierced the ground.
A folktale tells that
Mary, the mother of Jesus, took it upon herself to visit Jesus in Jerusalem and
thus she packed a basket with fresh eggs. It wasn’t much else she could take
him, Herod having just increased his taxes, again.
The road was winding
through the verdant green hills of Judea and Mary’s heart felt light for each
step brought her hither to her son, which she hasn’t seen in a long time. As
the morning progressed her own shadow became but a puddle by her feet. Soon
enough the basket began feeling heavier and heavier in her work-worn hand and
her steps became slower and slower and she felt like her journey to Jerusalem
had become a quest for shade. Not many trees were in bloom so as soon as Mary spotted
a stream sheltered by a little arbor she quickened her step and stopped to cool
and quench her thirst. It was a thirst like she had never felt before. So she looked about and decided to stop for a
The stream singed and
Mary saw a new nest above her head and smiled. Life was precious. The water
moved softly over her fingers and, when she removed her hand, a few droplets lingered
on her fingers. She brought the hand to her eyes and smiled, a whole life scene
embedded in those tiny see-through pearls.
It was a peaceful
moment and life’s moments were just like this string of beads following each
other on her outstretched hand. Each one connected to the next, stronger
together. Filled with love.
But it was time to move
along. Before getting up something tugged at her heart and Mary lifted the white
cotton fabric that covered the basket to see if the eggs were still in good
A dreadful sight unfolded
before her eyes. It was as if the sun had stopped shining, no gurgling from the
stream could glide through the air and all proof of life on earth had been stamped
The eggs had turned blood
red and the Blessed Mother of Jesus understood that the time had come for her son
to pay for our sins. But she was first a mother and he was her baby boy and so
she wept, Mary did, and as her tears rolled down her cheeks and dripped onto
the blood covered eggs they drew patterns, a cross, a star, lines and spirals.
When Mary reached the place where Jesus hang on the cross, she laid the basket at his feet and kneeled to pray. Then Jesus spoke and asked her not to cry for Him, but to share those blessed eggs with the people who believe in His resurrection.
This is why on the Orthodox Easter we color boiled eggs in red, we draw patterns on them and we share them with our loved ones, family, friends, colleagues, knocking egg against egg and saying: “Christ has risen,” and answer “It is true He has risen.”
The symbolism of the Easter egg
The hard shell of the egg symbolizes the sealed Tomb of Christ.
The cracking of the egg (through knocking) symbolizes His Resurrection.
The Ritual of coloring Easter Eggs
It is said that coloring Easter eggs is a sacred ritual. The day when one colors the eggs is special and no other activity will take place.
On counting the eggs that are to be colored, one doesn’t begin with one, but with “one thousand”, thus bringing wealth in the house for the remainder of the year.
The paint was already prepared, using different plants for different colors. GREEN – was made from walnut leaves, sweet apple skin. RED came from the leaf of a sweet apple, corn leaves or thyme. A special flower was used for YELLOW. Oregano was used to give the colored eggs a heavenly perfume.
The room where the eggs were painted was also special. No worried or upset person was allowed to step inside and no bad rumors or news of people who just passed away were allowed to reach the ears of the egg-painter.
Easter egg color symbolism
Easter eggs are nowadays colored in a rainbow of shades.
WHITE – means purity
RED – symbolizes the blood of Christ and life
BLUE – symbolizes the sky above, uniting us all
BLACK – means fertility
GREEN – means nature
YELLOW – symbolizes sun and energy
Orthodox Easter Egg Design Symbolism
A straight vertical line means life.
A straight horizontal line means death.
A double straight line symbolizes eternity.
A rectangle pattern – symbolizes thought and knowledge.
A sinuous line symbolizes water and purity.
A spiral means time and eternity.
A double spiral symbolizes the connection between life and death.
Cross – symbol for Christianity
A cross with additional small crosses at the end of each arm is a Russian cross.
A star – is called the “shepherd’s star”
A monastery – symbol of Christianity
Other motives used for decorating Easter eggs: bees, frogs, snakes, lambs, garden tools, fir tree, tulip, wheat.
Other traditions call for all the family members to wash their faces with fresh water on Easter morning, water from a container that holds a red egg and a silver coin. It is believed that the red egg brings good luck, good health, warn off evil spirits and all spells.
Cozonac is not only a culinary tradition , but a lesson in history as well. First baked in Ancient Egypt, sweetened with honey and filled with nuts, it soon appealed the Greeks – plakoús, πλακούς – who added raisins and walnuts into its filling. Next, the Romans loved it, adding their own spin to the recipe, dried fruits, and sharing it all over the Roman Empire – Romania included.
NOTE: this recipe makes 4 loaves (and 3 baby ones, please see below). Half it if you want to make less.
The cozonac is a sweet bread with filling, so having a filling is crucial for an all rounded taste.
TIME: preparation alone, between 3 – 4 hrs with baking time (because the cozonac must be allowed to rise twice). To reduce this time you can prepare the nut filling the day before).
The recipe for cozonac consists of two parts:
the filling (this is a nut filling, but if you are allergic to nuts or prefer not to use nuts, you can skip this part and use 250 g small cut Turkish Delight or plain chocolate spread instead);
the sweet bread dough.
Nut filling recipe (for 2 loaves):
250 ml milk (I used a lactose-free coffee creamer)
425 g ground walnuts (TIP: you can put the walnuts in a sandwich bag and roll them over with a rolling pin – please see below)
170 g white sugar
40 ml rum extract (you can substitute with 10 ml vanilla extract)
10 ml lemon extract (or lemon juice)
1 Tbsp lemon zest
2 Tbsp good cocoa powder (even 3 Tbsp if you love cocoa)
How to prepare the nut filling:
Melt sugar in milk over medium heat.
Add ground walnuts and stir for 10 minutes, until mixture is thickened.
Remove from the heat and add cocoa, rum extract, lemon extract, and lemon zest. Set aside and let it cool.
Sweet bread dough recipe (makes 4 loaves):
1 l milk (I used a lactose-free coffee creamer)
2 kg white flour
12 Tbsp white sugar
2 Tbsp lemon zest
40 ml rum extract (or use 5ml lemon juice + 10ml Vanilla)
6 -9 eggs at room temperature (depending on the size, e.g. 6 XL or 9 small). Use the freshest eggs you can find. The yolks will also give the cozonac, when cooked, a lovely light-yellow tint.
300 g butter (at room temperature)
1 tsp salt
3 packets fast rising dry yeast (3×10 g)
1 beaten egg for brushing the top of the loaves (or milk)
TIP: you will need a mixing bowl big enough to accommodate both your fists and still to give you enough space to knead the dough. A big cooking pot can also be used.
Mix butter, 1/2 of the milk and sugar in a saucepan and place it over medium heat until butter is melted and sugar is dissolved. Add the other 1/2 of the milk and let it cool until just warm.
Beat the eggs and blend them in the lukewarm milk mixture. Add lemon zest and rum / vanilla essence. Mixture should be +- 35 Degrees before adding it to the flour (too cool and the yeast will not be activated; too hot and it will kill the yeast).
In a large bowl place the white flour, sprinkle the salt and the dry yeast and give it a little mix. Make a hole in the center, like a well. Add the butter-milk-sugar-egg-essence mixture in this well. Mix with a wooden spoon until all ingredients are blended together – see images below.
Next you need to knead the dough with your fists for about 15 minutes. Knead then fold it over, turn the bowl 180 degrees and repeat. This will get the yeast to work. If the dough sticks to your hands pour a little bit of cooking oil (a teaspoon the most) over your hands and rub them, then knead again.
Just when you are done (15 minutes later) tug the dough in all around turning it into a nice, flat ball, rub a little bit more cooking oil over its top and all around the walls of the bowl. This is important as the dough will rise, you don’t want it to stick to the walls of the bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic and a clean tea towel and place in a warm spot. Allow the dough to rise until double in size. (about 20 – 30min)
Meanwhile, oil and flour your loaf pans and sprinkle your working area with flour. You can feel like a kid again and draw something…
Once the dough doubled in size kneed it down the dough once or twice, then divide it into the number of loaves you decided to make.
Pick one of the balls of dough and, while holding it above the working surface, stretch it a bit. Lay it flat and roll it with the rolling pin until it is about 3-4mm thick. In lengths, it has to be a little bit longer than your cooking pan. With a butter knife divide it in three.
TIP: consider how many loaves you will make and divide the nut filling or the Turkish delight accordingly.
Fill each of the three strips with the fillings desired. Roll each strip, pinch both ends and pinch along the rolled edge. Plait the three rolls together into a loaf. Carefully pick it up and place it in the pan.
Repeat for the remainder loaves.
Place each cozonac into a greased and floured loaf pan, brush with egg or milk and cover with a lightly greased plastic and a clean tea towel.
Allow the loaves to rise for another 20-30 minutes in a warm place.
Switch on the oven at 170 degrees Celsius or 340 Fahrenheit (Gas 3-4).
Bake for about 45 minutes or until light brown.
Set the pans on their side for 5 minutes.
Remove from the pan using a butter knife and then allow the cozonac to cool completely before serving – if you can resist it.
Serve with milk, coffee, tea, ice cream, red wine or with hard boiled egg and spring onion for breakfast!
Merry Christmas! Craciun Fericit!
What about you? What is your favorite Christmas meal?
If you decide to make cozonac using the recipe above, do send me a picture of your cozonac. I would love to post it here!